THE TRUTH ABOUT EXFOLIATION IN WINTER

Joanna (Tam) Pham
Jan 19
3 min read

When winter hits, many people notice their skin looking dull, flaky, or rough — especially around January and February. The most common reaction?

“My skin feels dry and bumpy, so I need to exfoliate more.”

This sounds logical… but it’s often the exact opposite of what your skin needs.

Let’s clear up the confusion and talk honestly — in simple terms — about exfoliation in winter, why skin problems peak around February, and how to exfoliate safely without damaging your skin barrier.

A women is having a facial exfoliation and skin nourishment — After exfoliating, giving your skin proper nourishment is key to repairing and strengthening the barrier.

WHY OVER‑EXFOLIATION SHOWS UP IN FEBRUARY

February is usually when skin problems explode.

Here’s why:

Cold outdoor air + dry indoor heating = extreme moisture loss
Skin barrier becomes weaker over time, not overnight
Dead skin looks thicker, but the living skin underneath is thinner and more sensitive

Imagine this:

Your skin is like a brick wall.

Skin cells = bricks
Natural oils = mortar holding it together

In winter, the mortar dries out. If you keep scrubbing or using strong acids, you’re not removing “extra bricks” — you’re breaking the wall.

This is why by February, many people experience:

Burning or stinging with products they used before
Sudden breakouts
Redness, tightness, or shiny‑but‑dry skin
Makeup sitting poorly on the skin

Dermatologist Dr. Whitney Bowe often emphasizes that barrier damage is the root cause of most winter skin issues — not lack of exfoliation.

ENZYME VS. ACID EXFOLIATION (IN SIMPLE WORDS)

Not all exfoliation is the same.

Acid Exfoliation (AHAs, BHAs, PHAs)

Think of acids like:

Paint remover

They dissolve the glue holding dead skin cells together.

Effective
Fast
But can easily go too deep when the skin is already dry or compromised

In winter, acids can:

Increase sensitivity
Trigger inflammation
Make dehydration worse

Enzyme Exfoliation

Enzymes work more like:

Scissors trimming loose threads

They only break down already dead skin cells — not living ones.

Gentler
Self‑limiting (they stop working once dead cells are gone)
Much safer for winter skin

This is why many estheticians and dermatologists recommend enzymes over acids during colder months.

Celebrity esthetician Joanna Vargas often shares that winter exfoliation should focus on supporting the skin, not forcing it.

WHO SHOULD PAUSE EXFOLIATION RIGHT NOW

You should strongly consider pausing or reducing exfoliation if:

Your skin stings when applying moisturizer
You feel tight even after skincare
You have flaky and oily skin at the same time
You’re experiencing redness, irritation, or sudden acne
You recently increased retinol, acids, or treatments

In these cases, exfoliating more won’t fix the issue — repairing the skin barrier will.

SAFE IN‑SPA EXFOLIATION OPTIONS (DONE THE RIGHT WAY)

Professional exfoliation is different from at‑home exfoliation because it is controlled, customized, and assessed first.

In‑spa options may include:

HydroFacial®

Uses a vortex physical exfoliation that gently lifts debris
Intensity and solution strength can be adjusted to your skin’s tolerance
Removes buildup without stripping

Professional Enzyme Exfoliation

Targets dead skin only
Ideal for sensitive, dehydrated, or winter‑stressed skin

Microdermabrasion / Wet Diamond

Controlled mechanical exfoliation
Can be customized to be very superficial and safe

The most important part?

Your skin is assessed first.

The exfoliation method, pressure, and products are selected based on what your skin can handle that day — not what worked last season or for someone else.

THE TRUTH NO ONE TELLS YOU

Flaky skin does not always mean your skin needs exfoliation.

Often it means:

Your skin is dehydrated
Your barrier is compromised
Your skin needs calming, hydration, and repair first

Exfoliation should be:

Strategic
Seasonal
Adjusted as your skin changes

As dermatologist Dr. Sam Bunting explains, “Healthy skin is not about doing more — it’s about doing what’s appropriate for the skin’s condition.”